Retired in Rome Journal: After the ‘slide, Vernazza returns as the shining star of Cinque Terre

Less than three years ago, a mudslide that killed nine buried Vernazza. Today, it's again the prettiest town in Cinque Terre.

On Cinque Terre, a camera is more important than good hiking shoes. With every turn, the towering cliffs offer a new angle of a gorgeous scene you left behind. Leaving Monterosso, I walked up a steep path and along the coastline where looking back I saw a view of Monterosso I could only see otherwise on an airplane. It was a cluster of small buildings huddled around a quaint port with the cliffs guarding it like a giant locked door.

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