Retired in Rome Journal: Testaccio gastro tour a bite of Rome’s tasty and disgusting past

Roberto Persiani holding black truffles in E Volpetti. Yes, those are priced at 890 euros a kilo.

Back 2,000 years ago, Rome had 1 million people. Another city in Europe didn’t reach that mark until London — in the 1850s. But the Romans living in Testaccio weren’t wearing togas and drinking wine in gold goblets near the Roman Forum. Since well before Spartacus first laid down his hammer and picked up his sword instead (See: Slave Revolts That End Badly), Testaccio has been the living quarters of the working class.

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