9 Comments

  1. Avatar Donigan Merritt
    July 20, 2016 @ 3:03 am

    I have lived here for the past couple of years, and it does often have the feel of a theme park. During the day, the neighborhood is filled with locals going about their business. It’s only at night, especially weekends, when it fills with hustlers, drunks, kids waiting to be robbed or raped, and goo-goo-eyed tourists. Day tourists seem to be here to photograph the Basilica Santa Maria. I have an acquaintance who lives on Via Fratte delle Trastevere in a building that until fairly recently was a whore house — boys on one floor, girls on another.

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    • John Henderson John Henderson
      July 20, 2016 @ 11:21 pm

      Holy hell, Donigan. You should write a blog. A whorehouse? Rome only has one strip joint.

      Reply

  2. Avatar Un po' di pepe
    July 20, 2016 @ 7:15 am

    Interesting stuff. I was planning on ending up in trastevere tonight after walking about. I won’t bring any matches !

    Reply

  3. John Henderson John Henderson
    July 20, 2016 @ 11:19 pm

    A fire in Trastevere wouldn’t last long night. It would get washed out just from the spilled beer. Thanks for the comment.

    Reply

  4. Avatar Alexandra
    July 21, 2016 @ 6:52 am

    Sounds like a fascinating tour. I’ve been lurking on your blog for a while, by the way, and it’s a really refreshing take on Rome. I’ve had to browse a lot of Rome/Italy/travel blogs for work, and it’s nice to see something that’s closer to journalism, rather than the usual shallow “top 10…in Rome” (which I’m guilty of writing myself), or endless pictures. You live in Testaccio too, right?

    Reply

    • John Henderson John Henderson
      July 21, 2016 @ 7:18 am

      Right, right on Lungotevere Testaccio, a true Roman neighborhood. Are you Italian? You write English well. You live in Testaccio also?

      Reply

      • Avatar Alexandra
        July 26, 2016 @ 9:26 am

        Hi, sorry for the late reply – didn’t get a notification!

        No, I’m British – grew up in London and moved to Rome in 2013. I teach English and write for a tour company. Yes, I live in Testaccio (Aldo Manuzio) and I love it. Can’t imagine living anywhere else!

        Reply

  5. John Henderson John Henderson
    July 26, 2016 @ 9:30 am

    I love it, too. A true Roman neighborhood. I recently had a big aperitivo party on my terrace to celebrate my landlady agreeing to give me an 18-month contract starting Sept. 1. I’ll be here until at least March 2018. We should have coffee at Linari sometime and discuss the ‘hood.

    Reply

    • Avatar Alexandra
      July 26, 2016 @ 11:14 am

      Congratulations! I’m currently in the middle of applying for residency, and my landlady is promising to give me a contract too – something I never thought would happen. Fingers crossed…

      I’m at Linari most mornings! I’m always interested in meeting other expats – even more so if they’re Testaccio-based writers (do you know Isobel aka Testaccina and Rachel aka Rachel Eats?). My email address is alexandraturney(@)hotmail.co.uk, and you can check out my blog here: https://gothoutorome.wordpress.com/

      Reply

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