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Schwerin: Germany’s “fairy tale city” with a horrifying past

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During my week at the Traverse travel bloggers conference in Hamburg last month, a bunch of us took a day trip to Schwerin. I’d never heard of it before but it’s one of the most charming little cities I’ve seen in Europe. Formerly in East Germany, it has emerged as a major destination in northern Germany complete with a 19th century castle, a UNESCO World Heritage designation and a Michelin-star restaurant.

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St. Pauli: Sex, sin and gentrification in Hamburg’s red light district

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Hamburg’s St. Pauli neighborhood is known as the biggest red light district in Europe. After staying there a week, I can verify. I’ve never seen anything like it and I lived in Las Vegas for 10 years. Yes, it’s full of sex at almost any hour. But it also has another side, an artsy side, with nice galleries, fine restaurants and leafy zones. This is the second of a three-part series.

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Hamburg: Beyond the red lights, a city hits the high notes

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Hamburg has always been known for its wild nightlife, fueled by the St. Pauli red-light district. But Germany’s second-largest city is having an urban makeover, starting with the Elbphilharmonie concert hall next to HafenCity, Hamburg’s refurbished port area. I went last week to attend the Traverse travel bloggers conference and went all over the city.

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An evil aunt and a gun-wielding motorist: The week in ’79 that changed my view of the U.S. forever

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I’ve been meaning to buy Thomas Wolfe’s “You Can’t Go Home Again” as I experienced something similar to what his leading character did in that classic novel from 1934. It was a week in 1979 when I tried hitchhiking from Los Angeles to my hometown of Eugene, Ore., after traveling around the world alone for a year. It was a disaster, punctuated by rude friends, an evil aunt and a motorist who pulled a shotgun on me. It changed my views of America forever.

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Inca Rail or PeruRail? How to choose your train to Machu Picchu

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There are a lot of comfortable ways to reach Machu Picchu without hiking the trail. Two rail lines stand out. PeruRail and Inca Rail offer a variety of services, ranging from panoramic windows to interpretive audio guides. Guest blogger Blake Anderson details the pluses and prices of each.

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Iraqi Kurdistan: Bombs, beauty and a fight for the future

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During my recent five-day trip through Iraqi Kurdistan, a found a beautiful land remarkably unspoiled after more than 100 years or turmoil. The autonomous region in northern Iraq is trying to grow through tourism while withstanding conflicts in the most embattled corner of the world.

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My night as a Kurdish wedding guest: Neutral corners and dance, dance, dance

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There are few better insights into a local culture than a wedding. During my recent trip through southeastern Turkey, our Travelers’ Century Club scored an invite to a Kurdish wedding. It was fabulous. We were the honored guests among 2,000 people. It wasn’t like any wedding I’d ever been to. Where else can’t men and women dance together?

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Into the land of the Kurds: A former war zone makes a comeback

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The Kurds are among the most persecuted ethnic group in the world and I entered their culture with a trip to southeastern Turkey which was a war zone until 10 years ago. The Kurds still dream of a homeland but are enjoying life again and I enjoyed their hospitality in the cities of Van and Hakkari and a short hiking into the beautiful Ciro Mountains.

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Cape Town after dark: From the waterfront to the theater

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Cape Town, South Africa, is a long ways away from many places but its landscapes make the trip worth it. However, it’s more than beautiful views and seascapes. It is also rich culturally and gastronomically. And it isn’t nearly as dangerous as Johannesburg.

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Istanbul’s Asian side: Only a ferry away but feels a continent away

People fishing off the pier in Moda on Istanbul

On our third trip to Istanbul two weeks ago, Marina and I decided to explore the city’s less-trodden Asian side. We were blown away by how calm, empty and leafy it was. It really felt like a continent away from the crowds and the chaos on the European side. We roamed three neighborhoods and had lunch by the Strait of Bosphorus while a hungry bird joined us from the nearby wall.

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