John Henderson's Travel Adventures in Rome and Beyond

July 8, 2025

Skye: As world falls apart, this quiet, green and cold Scottish isle was worth half century of wait

Skye is one of the most popular destinations in the United Kingdom. Impossibly green. Sparsely populated. Incredible views. Adventurous outdoor activities. We took a precatious 3 1/2-hour drive from Inverness to spend three nights on neighboring Raasay Island. It was an expensive three days but with the world caving in elsewhere. this corner of northwest Europe was the perfect escape.

July 1, 2025

Inverness: The fabled train ride isn’t as nice as the city

An Instagram video of the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Inverness got me interested in taking it from Edinburgh. However, an investigation told me just taking the regular Scotrail train would be cheaper and we’d see the same scenery. Turns out, the scenery wasn’t really worth the train trip. But Inverness was. Compact downtown. Beautiful river walk. Languid Ness Islands. We’re glad we went.

June 24, 2025

Edinburgh: After 47 years, a new perspective on a Scottish gem

I first visited Edinburgh in 1978 as a naive, rookie backpacker on the first week of a solo around-the-world journey. Two weeks I visited again for the first time. Some things have changed but none nearly as much as I have. I came with a seasoned traveler’s perspective, an aversion for tourist traps and more money.

June 20, 2025

Video: The Raasay House on Raasay Island, Scotland:

I’ll be writing three blogs off my recent trip to Scotland, starting with Tuesday’s return to Edinburgh after 47 years. First, I wanted to tease the series with a short video on our hotel base on Raasay Island in the Scottish Highlands.

June 17, 2025

My Five Favorite Restaurants in Italy — Edition 2

Five years ago I wrote My Five Favorite Restaurants in Italy. I’ve traveled a lot around the country since then so it’s time for an update. I picked five, but No. 1 remains the same. Check it out and take it with you on your next trip to Italy. Note: I left out Rome as I annually write My Five Favorite Restaurants in the city.

June 8, 2025

Rome’s pro-Palestinian rally draws 300,000 hoping Meloni, Netanyahu notice

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Marina and I attended Rome’s massive pro-Palestinian rally Saturday and I talked to many of the supporters. They were equally enraged by the Israeli “genocide” and Italy prime minister Georgia Meloni’s inaction. However, they were quick to point out they were not antisemitic.

June 3, 2025

Wine wars: Why we get headaches from drinking wine in U.S. but rarely in Italy — Chapter 2

Since retiring to Rome 11 years ago and getting fairly heavily into wine, I rarely get headaches. Yet I always did in the U.S. So do my readers. I sought answers at a recent wine tasting of my favorite Piedmont wines as well as wine experts in the U.S. and California. The culprit isn’t sulfites as I always thought. It’s much more complicated.

May 27, 2025

Rome hotel guide: The world’s briefest (Hey, I live in an apartment!) offers four I can recommend

I don’t know why visitors always ask me to recommend a hotel in Rome. I don’t know. I live in apartments. But over the last few years I’ve taken Marina to six hotels in Rome for one-night “staycations.” It has given me a small glimpse at the hotel scene here. Unfortunately, two we visited have closed. For what it’s worth, here are four we can recommend.

May 20, 2025

Pesto: Liguria’s trademark sauce puts punch in pasta

Pesto is one of the most popular sauces in Italy and two weeks ago Marina and I went to the birthplace of pesto: Liguria. During our four days in the port town of Porto Venere, we had pesto on pasta, in paninos and even on pancakes. We also interviewed the instructor of a pasta-makìng school. I became so addicted I bought a bottle of his homemade pesto.

May 16, 2025

Travel hidden gems: Off-the-beaten path destinations

If you’re tired of crowds when you travel, try to get off the beaten path. With more people traveling than ever before, that is getting harder. But guest blogger Karen Anthony gives some suggestions around the world.

May 13, 2025

Porto Venere: Italy’s Cinque Terre light perfect place to celebrate 10-year anniversary

I had never heard of Porto Venere until Marina suggested it for our 10-year anniversary. It looked perfect. Close enough to Cinque Terre to enjoy the beautiful coastal scenery but far enough away to avoid the mobs. Well, tourists still poured into Porto Venere but it’s nothing like Vernazza in July. We also had a lovely apartment away from the Old Town right on the beach with one of the best restaurants we’ve been to in Italy almost next door.

May 9, 2025

An American pope? It’s true and the Vatican Thursday was awash in hope and so was I

I was one of the millions around the world caught off guard by the naming of American cardinal Robert Francis Provost as the new pope. I was not interested in writing about Pope Francis’ successor but when I saw it was the first American pope in history, I raced to the Vatican. I found optimism from a wide range of people, from American pilgrims to nuns to Carmelite priests. I like the pick, and not just because he’s an American.

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