Europe

January 2, 2013

Puglia journal: Trip to gorgeous Adriatic beach is a true recycling affair

The gorgeous beach north of Otranto, just before tourist season.

SATURDAY, MAY 12 – OTRANTO, ITALY There’s a bottle of ice cold water near my laptop that I would’ve given five years off my life or my left testicle last night if it was available. I’m so dehydrated I don’t know if I felt worse this morning or yesterday when I had the vicious hangover. My relaxing day at the beach turned into the Tour […]

January 1, 2013

Puglia journal: The Puglia milk run consists of seven connections and 11 hours

My hotel in Otranto, the Bacconcino d'Oriente.

FRIDAY, MAY 11 – OTRANTO, ITALY I take back anything good I’ve said about Italian wine. They don’t need preservatives and phosphates, the mine fields of American wine, to produce a nuclear explosion in your frontal lobe. I’m writing this with one eye closed. It’s to lessen the pain from a savage hangover from the most lethal Italian wine I’ve ever had. Fumbling through my […]

January 1, 2013

Puglia journal: Cold beer, a quiet outdoor cafe and view of Adriatic = Kodak moment of foreign travel

Me and my view from the Grottino Grill in Vieste.

THURSDAY, MAY 10 – FOGGIA, ITALY There are certain times in a person’s travels when they find the perfect corner of the planet at just the perfect time. The Foggia train station McDonald’s, where I’m writing this, is not one of them. However, yesterday afternoon I had one of those moments – no, hours – when I was the happiest man on earth. I wondered […]

December 21, 2012

Puglia journal: A day at beach a quiet respite from celebration of Santa Maria di Marino

WEDNESDAY, MAY 9 – VIESTE, ITALY For a tiny beach town, this place is as loud as Fort Lauderdale over spring break. It’s the celebration of Santa Maria di Marino, the patron saint of Vieste. I think every town in Italy has a patron saint, but I’ve never seen one as beloved as this Santa Maria. Vieste puts on a festival for seven damn days. […]

December 21, 2012

Puglia journal: Vieste a romantic hideaway on the spur of Italy’s heel

Cheese vendor Costanzo Laprocina with a backdrop of caciocavallo cheese in his shop in Vieste, Puglia

TUESDAY, MAY 8 – VIESTE, ITALY Sometimes in travel you find yourself in such an idyllic place that you think you’re the only person in the world this happy. This is one of those times. I’m on the rooftop of Rocca Sul Mare, my hotel here high above the Adriatic Sea. The rooftop is barebones, just four random small wooden tables and chairs in an […]

December 17, 2012

Porto Journal: A day trip to lovely Pinhao

TUESDAY, MAY 1 Living in the States sometimes I forget the simple facts of Southern Europe. Take the siesta. Or pausa. Or mid-day break. I completely forgot that some countries completely shut down. In rural Portugal, you might as well not leave the hotel. From 3-6 everything is closed. So what time did I take for the train to wine country? The 1:35, arriving in […]

December 17, 2012

Porto Journal: A true slogging tour of port wineries

MONDAY, APRIL 30 Now I know why Porto takes like grape juice but wallops like grappa. It’s filled with brandy! The fucking Brits used to put brandy in their wine to preserve it for shipping. The brandy they use is 78 percent alcohol. That’s just one of the little tidbits of information I heard on two terrific winery tours yesterday. Porto has the most convenient […]

December 17, 2012

Porto Journal: Cheap wine with high alcohol, a deadly combination

The distinctive blue tile azulejos design in Porto's train station.

SUNDAY, APRIL 29 It’s 11:07 a.m. and I’m just now getting out of bed. Whether it’s Brazil or Portugal, these people know how to party. I’m drinking myself blind over here. Last night is a haze. All the bars melted into one long slog. I blame this port wine, a new addiction on the level of crack, heroin and baseball movies. After one glass, you […]

December 17, 2012

Porto Journal: Arriving to grilled meats wine and (erp!) 21% alcohol

Torre do Clerigos with 225-step spiral staircase.

SATURDAY, APRIL 28 The bells from the church seemingly in the next room have chimed nine times, 10 times, 11 times. It’s probably time to get up. The combination of 18 hours travel time and a wild Friday night in Porto hit me like a giant sand bag. I’m partially hung over, completely underestimating the power of port wine. I’m also so dehydrated the six […]

November 19, 2012

Pecorino, orechiette, fusilli, pesto define Puglia’s “poor cuisine”

VIESTE, ITALY — I walked down the street with a jump in my step, a parch in my throat and a hunger in my stomach. It’s remarkable how much appetite you build lying on an Italian beach. Plus, it’s a lot of stress. No. 35 sunscreen or 15? Dante or “The DaVinci Code?”?And, when in Puglia, pecorino or caciocavallo? Halfway back to my hotel, I stopped […]

November 19, 2012

London gastro pubs get a gold medal for organic fare

By John Henderson The Denver Postdenverpost.com LONDON — When I first started coming to London I saw a pub on about every other corner, kind of like McDonald’s in America except pub food was worse. Lousy pub food and warm beer. This is the birthplace of the British Empire? No wonder half the Caribbean wanted out. Arguably the worst food I’ve had in my life […]

November 19, 2012

Top Ten European hideaways

Veli was once home to wealthy shipowners and captains many years ago

Have you seen one too many Eiffel Tower paperweights? Is sunny Italy a little too warm while waiting in line outside a museum? How about finding fish ‘n chips shops on the beach in Spain? If Europe’s beaten paths lead you to frustration, boredom, and claustrophobia, don’t swap that Eurail pass for coupons to Disneyland. Europe still has unabashed, unspoiled pockets of culture to absorb. […]

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