Ever since I fell in love with Barolo after my first taste in Rome in 1999 I’ve wanted to visit the town of Barolo. I finally did it last week and reality surpassed my dream. The zone of Le Langhe has nearly 700 wineries, nearly all carrying the Nebbiolo grape that makes Barolo and its cousin to the north, Barbaresco. I did tastings at four wineries and drank Barolo inbetween.
South Moravia is the Tuscany of Czech Republic. Ninety-six percent of Czech’s underrated wines comes from this tiny sliver of land barely larger than Palestine. It specializes in white wines but I had one of the best Pinot Noirs of my life in this area around Brno, Czech’s second-largest city. I took a boat ride up the scenic Brno Reservoir and found the wines even better than the beer.
Czechs drink more beer per capita than any nation in the world. Their beer culture dates back to the 10th century. But I was fairly underwhelmed by Czech beer. It’s about 80 percent lager (Dark beer is considered a girlie drink.) and the lack of variety got old. However, beer is everywhere and so are Czechs enjoying one of the liveliest night lives in Europe.
Everyone knows Prague is where you go in the Czech Republic. Nine million tourists a year can’t be stupid. But Czech Republic’s second city, Brno, has plenty to offer. Not only does it have a lively nightlife, a terrific food scene and interesting architecture, it is definitely more authentic than Prague. And it has some quirky little sites that have you thinking and smiling. I spent all last week there at a conference. Here’s my report.
Salento is the peninsula that is the heel of Italy’s boot. It’s one of the most isolated places in Italy but easy access from Bari, Puglia’s capital. Guest blogger Annamaria Borelli rented a car and rekindled old childhood memories by hanging out at the beaches. A car is a must but so is relaxation.
Eating as a travel writer isn’t always chateaubriand in Chateaubriand, although I’ve had that. It’s also trying native foods that wouldn’t be shown in PG films. As a traveling food columnist for eight years, I dared myself to try foods that sound like a dare. From live beetle larvae in the Amazon to stir-fried dog in China to an Asian fruit so foul I couldn’t keep it down, I’ve seen the dark corners of the food world. I’ve collected the 10 worst for your displeasure.
The New York Times does a wonderful feature in its Sunday travel section called 36 Hours in … It picks a city around the globe and give readers places to go at appropriate times of the day. I did the same for Rome. I don’t include the major attractions such as the Colosseum and Vatican. You know those. I wrote about the places I would go as a Rome resident of 8 1/2 years. Hope it gives you some ideas next time you come to town, especially for the second time.
Rebetiko is Greek jazz that dates back to the Ottoman Empire. After being censored during World War II, it had a huge revival in the second half of the 20th century and is reaching new popularity now. While on the Greek isle of Skiathos, I went to one of the top rebetiko spots in Greece. Ouzeri Anatoli is where legendary Georgos Xintaris has played rebetiko since 1982. With great food and an even better view overlooking the Aegean Sea, it was one of the highlights of my many trips to Greece.
Six years ago on the Greek island of Skiathos, Marina and I found a dying kitten in a rain gutter. We took it to the Skiathos Cat Welfare Association which saved his life and made our vacation. We named him Bolt, hoping he’d run like Usain one day. We visited three years ago and, all grown, Bolt not only didn’t recognize us, he wouldn’t let us pet him. We returned last week and he was just as skittish. But he’s happy and, except for a bum leg, healthy. Here’s an update on the little orange kitten.
Every summer a group of Michigan State journalism students comes to Rome and I talk to them about my life as a sportswriter in the U.S. and my transformation to a travel writer in Rome. This year they asked some remarkably insightful questions. Here are some of them and how I answered them.
Kevin McAllister doesn’t just go places. He walks there. And he experiences every inch of culture along the way. The 66-year-old retired software salesman just finished walking 900 miles over 70 days, the vast majority over the historic Via Francigena pilgrimmage route that stretches from Canterbury, England, to Southern Italy. I met him during my stay in Cinque Terre last month and told him to look me up when he finished his pilgrimage in Rome. He did. We sat for drinks and he told me his story.
Monti has been a prominent Roman neighborhood since Ancient Rome but has changed its face over the centuries. Once Rome’s most teeming ghetto, it became a place to be for the rich in the Middle Ages and later the hippest place in Rome and now has gentrified into just another touristy neighborhood. It was my goal to live there. Not anymore.
