Italian Life

April 21, 2025

Pope Francis’ surprise death turns St. Peter’s Square into bastion of prayer — and tour groups

I woke up ready to write about my trip to Meteora, Greece’s towering collection of monasteries hanging off cliffs. Instead, I wrote a bigger religious story. Pope Francis is dead. It was announced at 7:30 a.m. Rome time and I raced down to St. Peter’s to capture the scene. It was business as normal but there was a very solemn backdrop.

March 25, 2025

Italy overrated: My 10 most overrated things in my adopted country (do you really like Prosecco?)

Italy has many beautiful things to write home about but some things have been written about too much. I count 10 overrated things in Italy, the hype of which has driven me crazy for years. I itemize them, from Prosecco to Cinque Terre.

February 25, 2025

Gorizia-Nova Gorica: Italian-Slovenian odd couple sharing European Capital of Culture 2025

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For the first time in the 40 years of European Capitals of Culture, two bordering cities are sharing the designation. Gorizia, Italy, and Nova Gorica, Slovenia have been on opposite sides of the same international border since Nova Gorica rose from the ashes of World War II. Today they claim to be borderless and civic cooperation led to their dual honor for 2025. I attended their opening ceremony earlier this month and this is my report.

February 18, 2025

Borgo Pio: Tiny Rome neighborhood perfect spot to celebrate Valentine’s Day eve and save money

Occasionally Marina and I spend a night in a hotel in our city of Rome just to remind ourselves why more than 10 million tourists visit every year. Last week we took a room in historic Borgo Pio, a slivert of a neighborhood near the Vatican. We went Feb. 13 to avoid the price gouging the next night on Valentine’s Day. The weather was rainy, perfect to scare away tourists and present Borgo Pio in its rawest form.

February 4, 2025

Hungary: How racist is Viktor Orban’s all-white country?

In my four visits to Hungary, I’ve always been startled by how white it is. I never see anyone of color. In light of prime minister Viktor Orban’s outlandish statements about immigration and his even more outrageous laws, I sought some answers during our visit last week. It’s not as racist as I thought but Orban is clinging to his immigration stance as he falls in the polls.

January 28, 2025

Giorgia Meloni: Life in Italy is so far so good — but I remain cautious

Frantic friends and readers have asked me this month how to move to Italy — but also ask what is life like under Giorgia Meloni. The prime minister, whose Brothers of Italy party has neo fascist roots, has been pretty benign. Nothing she has done has repulsed me or affected me. However, I remain cautious as her cozy relationship with Donald Trump and Elon Musk makes me and others in Italy nervous.

January 21, 2025

Jubilee’s Holy Doors: At St. Paul, you don’t need to be Catholic to appreciate the history and art

The Jubilee has come to Rome for a 13-month stay, meaning about 35 million pilgrims will pour in to walk through one of the four Holy Doors that were opened for the first time in 25 years. Marina and I went through the one in St. Paul Outside the Walls. I didn’t think it was a big deal, but I’m not Catholic. Marina is. It was a big deal to her and it has been for the world’s Catholics since 1500. Myself? I just loved the church’s beauty.

January 14, 2025

Travel bucket list 2025: From Wales to Thailand and some “weird” destinations in between

Since retiring to Rome in 2014, I average about 60 days of travel a year. I should top that in 2025. My travel bucket list has a trip either booked or tentatively scheduled nearly every month. They range from Wales this winter to Thailand next November with WAY off-the-beaten-path spots such as Turkmenistan and Syria in between. Take a look at my plan. Hope it inspires you to set sail.

January 7, 2025

Eleven years in Rome: My annual reasons for living here

Every year around Jan. 11, the anniversary of my arrival in Rome in 2014, I write all the reasons I love living here. After 11 years, it’s still not a problem finding new reasons. This year I found a whole new list, ranging from the draw Rome’s 930 churches has on me to chocolate-covered frappe served every Easter. Hope this list brings back fond memories or your trip to Rome or inspires you to make some memories of your own.

December 24, 2024

Rome Jubilee: After 25 years, the city tries to clean up for the world and 35 million visitors

Today marks the start of the Rome Jubilee, the Vatican’s celebration of reconciliation and spiritual renewal that is held every 25 years. Rome has been under heavy construction for the last year but is finally showing the positive effects. Here’s a preview of what to expect if you’re going to be one of the 35 million people expected to visit.

December 17, 2024

Rome Christmas markets: The subtle, romantic way to get into the Christmas spirit far from family

Christmas is different in Rome. Despite being the center of the Christian world, Christmas celebrations are more subtle here. A popular way to celebrate Christmas is Christmas markets. There are many in Rome and we spent the weekend going to three of them. They’re great for snacks, shopping and generally getting into the Christmas spirit without drowning in bright lights and loud carols.

December 13, 2024

Rome to Sicily by train: Ten hours of beautiful scenery but didn’t Mussolini make the trains run on time?

Gabor Kavocs, a lawyer in London and a friend I’ve known since we met in Florence in 1978, recently took a 10-train ride from Rome to Sicily with his wife, Caroline. It was full of lovely scenery and was a comfortable ride, the long delay notwithstanding. This is a guest blog from a good friend.

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