Italian Life

February 18, 2025

Borgo Pio: Tiny Rome neighborhood perfect spot to celebrate Valentine’s Day eve and save money

Occasionally Marina and I spend a night in a hotel in our city of Rome just to remind ourselves why more than 10 million tourists visit every year. Last week we took a room in historic Borgo Pio, a slivert of a neighborhood near the Vatican. We went Feb. 13 to avoid the price gouging the next night on Valentine’s Day. The weather was rainy, perfect to scare away tourists and present Borgo Pio in its rawest form.

February 4, 2025

Hungary: How racist is Viktor Orban’s all-white country?

In my four visits to Hungary, I’ve always been startled by how white it is. I never see anyone of color. In light of prime minister Viktor Orban’s outlandish statements about immigration and his even more outrageous laws, I sought some answers during our visit last week. It’s not as racist as I thought but Orban is clinging to his immigration stance as he falls in the polls.

January 28, 2025

Giorgia Meloni: Life in Italy is so far so good — but I remain cautious

Frantic friends and readers have asked me this month how to move to Italy — but also ask what is life like under Giorgia Meloni. The prime minister, whose Brothers of Italy party has neo fascist roots, has been pretty benign. Nothing she has done has repulsed me or affected me. However, I remain cautious as her cozy relationship with Donald Trump and Elon Musk makes me and others in Italy nervous.

January 21, 2025

Jubilee’s Holy Doors: At St. Paul, you don’t need to be Catholic to appreciate the history and art

The Jubilee has come to Rome for a 13-month stay, meaning about 35 million pilgrims will pour in to walk through one of the four Holy Doors that were opened for the first time in 25 years. Marina and I went through the one in St. Paul Outside the Walls. I didn’t think it was a big deal, but I’m not Catholic. Marina is. It was a big deal to her and it has been for the world’s Catholics since 1500. Myself? I just loved the church’s beauty.

January 14, 2025

Travel bucket list 2025: From Wales to Thailand and some “weird” destinations in between

Since retiring to Rome in 2014, I average about 60 days of travel a year. I should top that in 2025. My travel bucket list has a trip either booked or tentatively scheduled nearly every month. They range from Wales this winter to Thailand next November with WAY off-the-beaten-path spots such as Turkmenistan and Syria in between. Take a look at my plan. Hope it inspires you to set sail.

January 7, 2025

Eleven years in Rome: My annual reasons for living here

Every year around Jan. 11, the anniversary of my arrival in Rome in 2014, I write all the reasons I love living here. After 11 years, it’s still not a problem finding new reasons. This year I found a whole new list, ranging from the draw Rome’s 930 churches has on me to chocolate-covered frappe served every Easter. Hope this list brings back fond memories or your trip to Rome or inspires you to make some memories of your own.

December 24, 2024

Rome Jubilee: After 25 years, the city tries to clean up for the world and 35 million visitors

Today marks the start of the Rome Jubilee, the Vatican’s celebration of reconciliation and spiritual renewal that is held every 25 years. Rome has been under heavy construction for the last year but is finally showing the positive effects. Here’s a preview of what to expect if you’re going to be one of the 35 million people expected to visit.

December 17, 2024

Rome Christmas markets: The subtle, romantic way to get into the Christmas spirit far from family

Christmas is different in Rome. Despite being the center of the Christian world, Christmas celebrations are more subtle here. A popular way to celebrate Christmas is Christmas markets. There are many in Rome and we spent the weekend going to three of them. They’re great for snacks, shopping and generally getting into the Christmas spirit without drowning in bright lights and loud carols.

December 13, 2024

Rome to Sicily by train: Ten hours of beautiful scenery but didn’t Mussolini make the trains run on time?

Gabor Kavocs, a lawyer in London and a friend I’ve known since we met in Florence in 1978, recently took a 10-train ride from Rome to Sicily with his wife, Caroline. It was full of lovely scenery and was a comfortable ride, the long delay notwithstanding. This is a guest blog from a good friend.

November 26, 2024

Transnistria: The breakaway republic is a little Russia inside Moldova — and Lenin is watching you

Transnistria is a breakaway Russian republic in Moldova right on the Ukraine border. Neither Moldova nor the United Nations recognizes it as an independent country. It is very Russian, from the Cyrllic alphabet to the Russian language to the ruble monetary unit. I spent a night there and took Village and Soviet tours for a full report.

November 12, 2024

Moving to Italy: Trump’s victory leading thousands of Americans seeking pasta, vino and calm seas

So many people are disgusted with last week’s U.S. election that they are flooding expat websites trying to leave the country. A major target is Italy where I have received numerous inquiries, and the CEO of Expats Living in Rome says her emails have tripled. I examine the whole phenomenon with the CEO as we discuss the obstacles facing desperate Americans but also the rewards that are here..

October 22, 2024

Moldova wine: National Wine Day and world’s largest wine cellar plenty to drown my Italian-trained palate

Curious about Moldovan wine after a couple of tastings in Italy, I flew to Europe’s poorest country for the Moldova National Wine Day. For two days I tried wines from some of the 100 wineries that attended. I also toured the Milestii Mici winery boasting the world’s largest wine cellar with 2 million bottles of wine.

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