Italian Life

December 24, 2024

Rome Jubilee: After 25 years, the city tries to clean up for the world and 35 million visitors

Today marks the start of the Rome Jubilee, the Vatican’s celebration of reconciliation and spiritual renewal that is held every 25 years. Rome has been under heavy construction for the last year but is finally showing the positive effects. Here’s a preview of what to expect if you’re going to be one of the 35 million people expected to visit.

December 17, 2024

Rome Christmas markets: The subtle, romantic way to get into the Christmas spirit far from family

Christmas is different in Rome. Despite being the center of the Christian world, Christmas celebrations are more subtle here. A popular way to celebrate Christmas is Christmas markets. There are many in Rome and we spent the weekend going to three of them. They’re great for snacks, shopping and generally getting into the Christmas spirit without drowning in bright lights and loud carols.

December 13, 2024

Rome to Sicily by train: Ten hours of beautiful scenery but didn’t Mussolini make the trains run on time?

Gabor Kavocs, a lawyer in London and a friend I’ve known since we met in Florence in 1978, recently took a 10-train ride from Rome to Sicily with his wife, Caroline. It was full of lovely scenery and was a comfortable ride, the long delay notwithstanding. This is a guest blog from a good friend.

November 26, 2024

Transnistria: The breakaway republic is a little Russia inside Moldova — and Lenin is watching you

Transnistria is a breakaway Russian republic in Moldova right on the Ukraine border. Neither Moldova nor the United Nations recognizes it as an independent country. It is very Russian, from the Cyrllic alphabet to the Russian language to the ruble monetary unit. I spent a night there and took Village and Soviet tours for a full report.

November 12, 2024

Moving to Italy: Trump’s victory leading thousands of Americans seeking pasta, vino and calm seas

So many people are disgusted with last week’s U.S. election that they are flooding expat websites trying to leave the country. A major target is Italy where I have received numerous inquiries, and the CEO of Expats Living in Rome says her emails have tripled. I examine the whole phenomenon with the CEO as we discuss the obstacles facing desperate Americans but also the rewards that are here..

October 22, 2024

Moldova wine: National Wine Day and world’s largest wine cellar plenty to drown my Italian-trained palate

Curious about Moldovan wine after a couple of tastings in Italy, I flew to Europe’s poorest country for the Moldova National Wine Day. For two days I tried wines from some of the 100 wineries that attended. I also toured the Milestii Mici winery boasting the world’s largest wine cellar with 2 million bottles of wine.

October 15, 2024

36 Hours in Rome: How I’d spend a short weekend here

The New York Times does a wonderful feature in its Sunday travel section called 36 Hours in … It picks a city around the globe and give readers places to go at appropriate times of the day. I did the same for Rome. I don’t include the major attractions such as the Colosseum and Vatican. You know those. I wrote about the places I would go as a Rome resident of 8 1/2 years. Hope it gives you some ideas next time you come to town, especially for the second time.

October 1, 2024

My Five Favorite Restaurants in Rome 2024: A new No. 1

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I started running a list of my five favorite restaurants in Rome in 2016. I try to do it every year that’s not wiped out by a global pandemic. The 2024 list is a little late but it’s out today. There is a new No. 1 but my usual No. 1, Renato e Luisa, made the list for the fourth time. Keep this list handy for that next trip to Rome.

August 27, 2024

Porticoes: These golden arches make Bologna famous

I love Bologna, not just because of its luscious spaghetti bolognese but for its porticoes. Those are the graceful arches that cover 40 miles of Bologna streets. UNESCO awarded them with a World Heritage Site three years ago and they remain one of the most distinct architectural styles in Italy. I visited last month and came away with this report.

August 20, 2024

United States impressions: Expensive and divided but still a beautiful, spotless nation

I knock the U.S. a lot for its divided politics and obese population. After our recent 11-day jaunt across the country, I found a new reason to hate it: prices. It’s outrageously expensive. But I was also reminded of its spotless beauty and the people were ob, so nice. Now if Kamala Harris can just win in November, I might go back.

August 9, 2024

South American beaches: Top 10 from Colombia to Brazil

Winter isn’t that far away. If you think you’ll need a beach fix in December, skip the Caribbean and consider South America. It’ll be their summer down there. Guest blogger Kathy Spencer lists the the top 10 beaches in South American for your perusal.

August 6, 2024

50-year high school reunion reminds me of the true meaning of success — and it’s not money

I attended my 50-year high school reunion last month and it was great to see old friends, catch up and share laughs and beer. But I also realized that my life in Italy has taught me that success isn’t based on what you can tell me about your resume. It’s more than that. It’s inside.

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