John Henderson's Travel Adventures in Rome and Beyond

November 1, 2022

Lucca: This great wall encloses an indy Tuscan treasure

For more than 10 years living in Rome I’ve heard about the wonders of Lucca. The huge wall. The historical center. The great Tuscan cuisine. We stopped there for nights going and coming from Le Langhe last month and came away feeling we cheated ourselves on time. Lucca’s wall meets the hype and while it isn’t off Tuscany’s beaten path, the old town does have an ancient-modern charm to it.

October 25, 2022

Global warming and Italian wine: €2 billion loss and lower production of up to 30 percent has winemakers nervous

Global warming has cut wine production in my beloved Le Langhe zone by 30 percent as wine makers are harvesting their grapes earlier every year. I went to Le Langhe two weeks ago and the wine makers I interviewed are nervous. Global warming hasn’t affected the taste yet but they worry about the future. They’re taking drastic measures to preserve water and their wine industry.

October 20, 2022

What wine would you drink before you die? I ask the wine experts in Le Langhe and it’s not always expensive Barolo

At every wine tasting, I ask the local wine experts; Pretend you’ll be executed tomorrow morning. What wine in the world do you drink tonight? I asked this at all the wineries and wine shops I visited in Le Langhe last week. You’ll be surprised by the answers.

October 18, 2022

Barolo: My love letter from the vino paradiso of Le Langhe

Ever since I fell in love with Barolo after my first taste in Rome in 1999 I’ve wanted to visit the town of Barolo. I finally did it last week and reality surpassed my dream. The zone of Le Langhe has nearly 700 wineries, nearly all carrying the Nebbiolo grape that makes Barolo and its cousin to the north, Barbaresco. I did tastings at four wineries and drank Barolo inbetween.

October 11, 2022

South Moravia: Czech Republic’s wine cellar a rural gem

South Moravia is the Tuscany of Czech Republic. Ninety-six percent of Czech’s underrated wines comes from this tiny sliver of land barely larger than Palestine. It specializes in white wines but I had one of the best Pinot Noirs of my life in this area around Brno, Czech’s second-largest city. I took a boat ride up the scenic Brno Reservoir and found the wines even better than the beer.

October 4, 2022

Czech beer falls flat next to Belgium’s but there’s a lot of it

Czechs drink more beer per capita than any nation in the world. Their beer culture dates back to the 10th century. But I was fairly underwhelmed by Czech beer. It’s about 80 percent lager (Dark beer is considered a girlie drink.) and the lack of variety got old. However, beer is everywhere and so are Czechs enjoying one of the liveliest night lives in Europe.

September 26, 2022

Giorgia Meloni’s Brothers of Italy party wins election and my adopted country descends into the far right

Giorgia Meloni, a 45-year-old Roman, has led her neophyte Brothers of Italy party from the ground floor of Italian politics to the country’s most powerful position. She won Sunday’s prime minister election, and her right-wing coalition is set to take over the Parliament. What does Italy’s first right-wing government since Mussolini mean for immigrants like me? I’m not worried, but I am cautious.

September 21, 2022

Brno: Prague’s quirky “little brother” is true Czech

Everyone knows Prague is where you go in the Czech Republic. Nine million tourists a year can’t be stupid. But Czech Republic’s second city, Brno, has plenty to offer. Not only does it have a lively nightlife, a terrific food scene and interesting architecture, it is definitely more authentic than Prague. And it has some quirky little sites that have you thinking and smiling. I spent all last week there at a conference. Here’s my report.

September 13, 2022

Salento: Driving along Puglia’s magnificent, isolated peninsula a smorgasbord of beautiful beaches

Salento is the peninsula that is the heel of Italy’s boot. It’s one of the most isolated places in Italy but easy access from Bari, Puglia’s capital. Guest blogger Annamaria Borelli rented a car and rekindled old childhood memories by hanging out at the beaches. A car is a must but so is relaxation.

September 6, 2022

10 worst foods of my life: From beetle larvae in the Amazon to insects in Cambodia, I’ve tried them all

Eating as a travel writer isn’t always chateaubriand in Chateaubriand, although I’ve had that. It’s also trying native foods that wouldn’t be shown in PG films. As a traveling food columnist for eight years, I dared myself to try foods that sound like a dare. From live beetle larvae in the Amazon to stir-fried dog in China to an Asian fruit so foul I couldn’t keep it down, I’ve seen the dark corners of the food world. I’ve collected the 10 worst for your displeasure.

August 23, 2022

Rebetiko: Greek blues from high atop the Aegean Sea

Rebetiko is Greek jazz that dates back to the Ottoman Empire. After being censored during World War II, it had a huge revival in the second half of the 20th century and is reaching new popularity now. While on the Greek isle of Skiathos, I went to one of the top rebetiko spots in Greece. Ouzeri Anatoli is where legendary Georgos Xintaris has played rebetiko since 1982. With great food and an even better view overlooking the Aegean Sea, it was one of the highlights of my many trips to Greece.

August 16, 2022

Bolt revisited: The dying kitten we saved thriving in Greece

Six years ago on the Greek island of Skiathos, Marina and I found a dying kitten in a rain gutter. We took it to the Skiathos Cat Welfare Association which saved his life and made our vacation. We named him Bolt, hoping he’d run like Usain one day. We visited three years ago and, all grown, Bolt not only didn’t recognize us, he wouldn’t let us pet him. We returned last week and he was just as skittish. But he’s happy and, except for a bum leg, healthy. Here’s an update on the little orange kitten.

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