Christmas in pandemic Rome: Quiet nights and strict rules as Covid-19 plays Grinch
The man selling roasted chestnuts on the corner near the Spanish Steps looked as bored as a stuffed reindeer. He glanced at his watch. He looked at me. I looked at his pile of smoking, browned chestnuts and smelled the glorious aroma that always makes Christmas in Rome so sweet. But no one was buying. […]